Temple 73, Shusshaka-ji
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Temple 73, Shusshaka-ji
Shusshaka-ji is temple No. 73 on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The temple stands at the bottom of the imposing Mt. Gahaishi. From the temple itself, there’s an expansive view over the plains of Sanuki. Near the temple are the remains of numerous ancient tumuli.
While the temple is a pleasant place to visit, the inner sanctuary or Okunoin on Mt. Gahaishi is sure to leave an indelible impression. The founder of the pilgrimage Kūkai was born in nearby Zentsūji, and as a boy of seven, then named Mao, he decided to test his faith by leaping off a precipice on Mt. Gahaishi. The site of his leap is a steep climb above Shusshaka-ji, and the views from there are magnificent. It takes about thirty minutes to walk up to the lovely Okunoin, and another ten or so to climb up to Mao’s Leap.
What to see
The approach to the temple grounds is lined with many donated stone statues, memorial stones haiku monuments, and seasonal flowers. The temple gate is new.
After passing through the gate and turning right, the temple office is on the left, with the main hall in front of it and the Daishi Hall on the right. In the main hall, you can faintly see the image of a seated Shaka Nyorai through the bamboo screens. The side chapels are flanked by a seated image of Kokūzō and a standing image of Fudō Myōō. The broom under the eaves relates to an anecdote about the tenth disciple of the Buddha, the foolish Suddhipanthaka, who knew he was foolish but made himself useful sweeping. He attained enlightenment before his more intelligent brother. In the Daishi Hall, you can see a statue of Kūkai from the nose down. His scarlet robe is renewed regularly.
Stone steps to the left of the main hall lead up to a red-walled Jizō Hall, beyond which is a place for remote worship of the distant inner sanctuary on Mt. Gahaishi above (for those who can’t make it there). Here there’s a stone statue of Kokūzō on a large stone pedestal, and a stone image of the young Kūkai being saved by a celestial maiden.
A very steep road leads up behind the temple to the Okunoin inner sanctuary located high on Mt. Gahaishi. Here there’s a temple gate and a walled approach leading to a belfry and a gilded statue. The building here is called the Nemoto Hall and it was built around the 1930s. You can duck under the Nemoto Hall to a rough track up the mountain. There’s a small cave with a statue of Kūkai and after another 100 m, another similar statue marking the spot where he made his legendary jump. There’s also an image of Fudō Myōō carved into the rock wall. You can carry on up the trail to the top of Mt. Gahaishi.
History
In 1653, the pilgrim Chōzen reported that there was no temple at the foot of the mountain, but at the top he saw the remains of an old hall and some statues. In the late 1600s, a temple was built on the mountain, but worship was conducted at its foot. Then in 1920, the temple at the foot of the mountain was officially made the place of worship, and it remains so today.
Legends
According to legend, when Kūkai was seven years old and named Mao, he climbed the mountain and declared, “I wish to enter the Buddhist school and save many people and sentient beings. If my wish is to be fulfilled, Lord Shakyamuni Buddha, please appear to me. If my wish is not to be fulfilled, I will offer my life to the Buddha”. Then he jumped off a cliff into the valley. As he fell, a heavenly maiden caught him, and Shakyamuni Buddha appeared promising that his wish would be fulfilled. After coming of age, Kūkai climbed the sacred mountain again, practised austerities, and founded a temple dedicated to Shakyamuni Buddha. Hence the name of the temple.
Information
Name in Japanese: 出釈迦寺
Pronunciation: shusshaka-ji
Address: 1091 Yoshiwaracho, Zentsuji, Kagawa 765-0061
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