The Shikoku Pilgrimage, or Henro is one of Japan’s many sacred pilgrimage routes. Its modern incarnation connects 88 temples to form a 1,200 circle around the island of Shikoku. While its legendary origins center on the monk Kūkai, who lived in the 9th century, its roots stretch back even further.
Shikoku: A Land Apart
Though close to the ancient capitals of Nara and Kyoto, treacherous seas separate Shikoku from the mainland, and dense forests and mountains cover its surface. Buddhist practitioners favored it as a place to escape the noise and strict control of cities. The monks who came to Shikoku sought out isolated places to meditate, and it’s likely that a network of such places spread by word of mouth from practitioner to practitioner.
The Buddhist saint Kūkai, who was born in the north of Shikoku in 774, mentions practicing at three such places. Mt. Tairyu, the current site of Temple 21; a cave in Muroto on the island’s southern coast; and Mt. Ishizuchi, western Japan’s tallest mountain, in modern-day Ehime. After Kūkai’s time, monks of his Shingon sect and others continued to travel to Shikoku, spreading faith in Kukai—posthumously called Kobo Daishi—as they went. This in turn attracted more laypeople to “follow in Kukai’s footsteps” in Shikoku. The popularity of the pilgrimage grew steadily over the next few centuries.
The Heyday of the Shikoku Pilgrimage
By the 17th century, the pilgrimage had been formalized as 88 Sacred Sites and had become synonymous with faith in Kūkai, known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi. It’s around this time that the name “Henro,” or “Encompassing Path,” began to stick. This indicated a shift from the freeform, nature-based practice of Kūkai’s day to a more defined route between set sites.
This period also saw the publication of the first pilgrim guidebook, written in 1678 by a monk named Shinnen. His book standardized the order of the sacred sites, the prayers at each of them, and parts of the route. This was in some ways the heyday of the Henro. Pilgrims from every level of society braved the treacherous journey in search of answered prayers and spiritual fulfillment. Read more about the Henro and Japan’s other sacred routes on the JNTO Website.
The Modern Henro: the Shikoku Pilgrimage Now
The Henro continued to evolve as Japan transitioned from a feudal society to an industrial one in the 19th and 20th centuries. The biggest change, without a doubt, was the advent of the automobile. Nowadays, most pilgrims undertake the journey either on organized bus tours or by private car. Even so, the number of walking pilgrims—particularly from outside Japan—increases year after year, adding yet another chapter to the long history of the Shikoku Henro. Read one pilgrim’s reflections on visiting some temples around Shikoku at Japan Guide.
Start Your Journey
The Henro’s multilayered past means it offers something for everyone. Our offerings feature a variety of guided activities on the Henro, from weeklong fully immersive walking pilgrimages to meditation experiences in temples. Contact us now to start planning your pilgrimage.
