The Iya Valley in Tokushima is a dramatic gorge carved by the Iya River, which rises on Mt. Tsurugi, and meanders for fifty-four kilometres before joining the Yoshino River. Members of the Taira clan and the boy-emperor Antoku took refuge in this remote valley after losing the Genpei War to the Minamoto clan in the late 12th century, and their ancestors still reside here.

Mt. Tsurugi, the second-highest mountain on Shikoku, is at the east end of the Iya Valley known as Oku-Iya, “Deep Iya”. The sword of Emperor Antoku is said to be buried on the mountain like a Japanese Excalibur—the mountain’s name means “sword”. There’s also a legend that the Ark of the Covenant is buried here, protected by an enormous snake, and excavations conducted but abandoned early last century are said to have unearthed tunnels and even perhaps a mummy. Mt. Tsurugi is the only place in Shikoku where bears are known to live, although they’re seldom seen. There’s a convenient chairlift up the mountain, making mountain-top hiking easy and pleasant in the warmer months. If you’re going to Mt. Tsurugi, don’t miss the beautiful Tsurugi Shrine.

Three suspension bridges made of vines span the Iya River in two locations. These were originally built by the Taira clan (also called ‘the Heike’), the idea being that they could easily be cut down if their enemies, the Minamoto, tried to cross them. Today, the bridges are made of steel wrapped in vines, which need to be replaced every few years. There are several other places with dramatic, modern wire suspension bridges over deep gorges, which most visitors never get to see.