Innoshima Island is part of the Shimanami Kaido. It’s the fifth island from Shikoku, and the second island in Hiroshima Prefecture as you head north.

Innoshima was one of the Inland Sea bases of the maritime clans called the Murakami kaizoku in the Warring States period. While reviled as pirates by land-based clans and merchants, they played a role similar to coast guards, and were used as naval forces by the leading warlords of the time. Today they’re celebrated on Innoshima with a very fake castle housing a museum, and a lively summer festival.

The “castle” was built in 1983 and has nothing to do with the simple wooden watchtowers and palisades that would actually have existed. It has various exhibits about the Murakami.

Other attractions include beaches and the Innoshima Flower Center at the foot of Mt. Shiratake. This steep mountain is 227 m high and offers a panoramic view over the Inland Sea. It also has hundreds of carvings of Buddhas, Tengu, and disciples of the Buddha, each with their own unique character.

Close to the off-ramp of the Innoshima Bridge is Ohamasaki Park. There’s a good campsite and a trail that goes out to a lighthouse. Shimanami Beach is one of the best places to swim on the island, and there’s a small water park with slides which opens in July and August.

Cyclists on the Shimanami are typically puzzled to see a concrete brontosaurus standing inexplicably near the cycle route.