Ryōkei Kume, a priest at Tokushima’s Konji-ji temple, guides visitors through takigyō (waterfall training) for over twenty years, even in the freezing cold. “When I was thinking about what I could offer as a priest here, I made a vow that I’d make myself available whenever somebody asks to practice,” he explains over tea in the temple’s drawing room. The quiet mountain atmosphere and warm tea make it easy to ask Ryōkei-san questions–a good thing to do, as many people find the prospect of standing under a waterfall intimidating. But Ryōkei-san’s quiet, confident atmosphere soon sets most visitors at ease.
“Shall we say some prayers before heading down to the falls?” he asks, and the experience begins.
Misogi’s Ancient Roots
Found in both Japanese Buddhism and Shintō, the practice of purification in the sea, waterfalls, and streams has roots that stretch back to the earliest days of Japanese spirituality. In the Kojiki, an early collection of Shintō stories, the deity Izanagi bathes in a stream to wash the impurity of the underworld from his body. In Shintō, purifying the body and purifying the mind are considered inseparable; by performing misogi, as immersion in sacred water is known in the tradition, one clears spiritual and physical impurities that cause things to go wrong in life.
Found in both Japanese Buddhism and Shintō, the practice of purification in the sea, waterfalls, and streams has roots that stretch back to the earliest days of Japanese spirituality. In the Kojiki, an early collection of Shintō stories, the deity Izanagi bathes in a stream to wash the impurity of the underworld from his body. In Shintō, purifying the body and purifying the mind are considered inseparable; by performing misogi, as immersion in sacred water is known in the tradition, one clears spiritual and physical impurities that cause things to go wrong in life.
This practice of immersion was continued by practitioners of Buddhism and Shugendō, where it was recast as takigyō (waterfall austerities), a method of meditation undertaken to sharpen the mind, cultivate resolve, or purify oneself before esoteric ritual. Shikoku is scattered with waterfalls said to have been used as training sites by En no Gyōja, the legendary founder of Shugendō, and by Kūkai, founder of Shingon Buddhism and the spiritual center of the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
What to Expect
The experience starts in Konji-ji’s main hall, built right up against a cave on the mountainside where its main deity is venerated. Here Ryōkei-san leads participants in a brief service asking for the deity’s protection in their training. His powerful, rhythmic, resonant chanting has earned him quite a following on Konji-ji’s YouTube channel.
Next Ryōkei-san guides visitors on a short hike down the hill toward the Konji Falls. Confident hikers can try descending via the mountain’s gyōba, rocky sections used as ascetic training grounds, with the help of iron chains. For those less sure of their footing, there is a gentler route available.
The experience starts in Konji-ji’s main hall, built right up against a cave on the mountainside where its main deity is venerated. Here Ryōkei-san leads participants in a brief service asking for the deity’s protection in their training. His powerful, rhythmic, resonant chanting has earned him quite a following on Konji-ji’s YouTube channel.
Next Ryōkei-san guides visitors on a short hike down the hill toward the Konji Falls. Confident hikers can try descending via the mountain’s gyōba, rocky sections used as ascetic training grounds, with the help of iron chains. For those less sure of their footing, there is a gentler route available.
At the base of the trail, the waterfall comes into view. Participants are given white robes to change into (ladies are encouraged to bring leggings, etc. to wear under their robes, and a tent is provided for privacy while changing). After gearing up, Ryōkei-san leads a small chanting service at a hall beside the falls, uttering protective mantras to safeguard practitioners.
Ryōkei-san enters the waterfall first, checking the temperature and flow so he can adjust the length of practice to suit each participant. In the heat of summer, the cool water feels refreshing. Water temperatures fall as the year progresses, and the falls partly freeze in winter. The Konji Falls divide into two streams, and participants usually enter twice, sometimes two people at once. Time beneath the water is measured by the sutras and mantras Ryōkei-san chants with steady intensity.
At the base of the trail, the waterfall comes into view. Participants are given white robes to change into (ladies are encouraged to bring leggings, etc. to wear under their robes, and a tent is provided for privacy while changing). After gearing up, Ryōkei-san leads a small chanting service at a hall beside the falls, uttering protective mantras to safeguard practitioners.
Ryōkei-san enters the waterfall first, checking the temperature and flow so he can adjust the length of practice to suit each participant. In the heat of summer, the cool water feels refreshing. Water temperatures fall as the year progresses, and the falls partly freeze in winter. The Konji Falls divide into two streams, and participants usually enter twice, sometimes two people at once. Time beneath the water is measured by the sutras and mantras Ryōkei-san chants with steady intensity.
Once everyone has had their turn, they dry off and change back into their clothes before heading back up to the temple for another cup of tea, a chance to share and reflect on their experience.
Taking the Plunge
When asked what he encourages people to focus on during takigyō, Ryōkei-san replies, “I think it’s best to go in with an open mind, without too many expectations, and then see how you feel afterward.” True to that spirit, a wide range of people come to practice at Konji Falls: pilgrims walking the Shikoku Henro, students preparing for entrance exams, and others who return month after month to deepen their training.
For those interested in trying takigyō independently, Konji-ji accepts individual reservations directly through the temple’s website, making it one of the most accessible places in Shikoku to experience waterfall training under the guidance of an active priest.
A similar flow of preparation, prayer, and immersion can also be found in Shintō contexts. From July through September, Ishizuchi Shrine in Saijō offers misogi as part of its summer practice season. Though the ritual language differs slightly, the flow of the experience closely resembles that of Konji-ji.
Experiencing Water Purification with Shikoku Tours
Shikoku Tours weaves takigyō and misogi into carefully paced itineraries that situate waterfall training within the landscapes, temples, and communities that have sustained it for centuries. From the mountains of Tokushima to the sacred slopes of Mt. Ishizuchi, these experiences are approached not as isolated challenges, but as living traditions rooted in place. Expert guide-interpreters help take the experience to the next level by facilitating real conversations with seasoned takigyō practitioners.
Whether arranged as part of a guided journey or undertaken independently, takigyō in Shikoku is a rare chance to engage Japanese spirituality not as trivia or theory, but as real practice experienced with the whole body.
Please note:
Waterfall training and misogi place physical demands on the body, particularly in cold water. Those with heart conditions, high blood pressure, or other health concerns are encouraged to proceed with care and to take part only to the extent that feels comfortable.
Please note:
Waterfall training and misogi place physical demands on the body, particularly in cold water. Those with heart conditions, high blood pressure, or other health concerns are encouraged to proceed with care and to take part only to the extent that feels comfortable.
