The Shikoku Pilgrimage isn’t an artifact of Japanese history—it’s a living tradition open to anyone. Like any journey, this 1,200 kilometer odyssey starts with a single step. But where to start, and where to find information so you can make it to the journey’s end? Read on for answers to some of the most common questions about the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
Where do I start the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
Nowadays, most pilgrims start…well at the beginning! Pilgrimage Temple 1, Ryozen-ji, is located in Naruto, Tokushima, on the island’s northeast corner. This is because the monk who wrote the first guidebook to the Shikoku Pilgrimage in the 1600s, was from Osaka. The most accessible route from Osaka in his day landed in Naruto. Naruto is still a convenient point of entry from much of mainland Japan, so it remains the most commons tarting point. As a result, there are a number of pilgrimage gear shops in the area.
However, the pilgrimage route is a circle meaning you end up finishing pretty much right where you started. Shikoku locals historically just started at the temple closest to their home and ended when they got back. While Ryozen-ji was listed as Temple One from early days, other early guidebooks listed Kukai’s birthplace at Temple 75, Zentsu-ji as the start. And people from Kyushu usually started from the castle town of Ozu on the opposite side of the island.
In other words — you can start wherever you want!
Is the pilgrimage only for walkers?
Many westerners are surprised to learn that walking pilgrims are in the minority in Shikoku. Of that small proportion, about half are non-Japanese! Nowadays Japanese pilgrims generally do the pilgrimage by car. Even many walking pilgrims use public transit to bridge the distance between some temples.
Historically walking was of course the most common way for average folks to do the Henro. However, wealthier people might do it on a horse, wagon, or even carried by servants in a litter! As a result, carved stone markers outside many temples are inscribed with the phrase “Get off your horse.”
While you won’t see any horses on the route these days, an increasing number of pilgrims are undertaking the journey by bicycle or e-bike. While Shikoku’s cycling infrastructure is still underdeveloped in some areas, the effort is repaid with many spectacular sections along rugged coasts and mountain roads.
How long does the Shikoku Pilgrimage take?
Walking the full 1,200 km Shikoku Pilgrimage takes most people 40–50 days. If you add in rest days, side excursions, and so on, you can stretch the journey to pretty much any length.
About 80% of the route follows paved roads, and the remaining 20% includes mountain trails and rural paths. Many wanting to avoid some of the longer sections on pavement combine walking with public transport or cycle the whole route. Either of those options can the journey to around 30 days.
Since WWII, most pilgrims complete the Henro by tour bus or private car, a style that allows more time for prayer and reflection at each temple and takes around 14 days.
Do I have to do the whole Shikoku Pilgrimage at once?
There is a storied tradition of kugiri-uchi, or “pilgrimage in sections,” where people tackle one section of the journey at a time. In fact, in work-oriented Japan where long holidays are rare, this by far the most common approach to the Henro.
Some might choose to do the pilgrimage one prefecture at a time (ikkoku-mairi). Others might break it up into even smaller chunks to accommodate this schedule. Whatever approach you decide to take, you’ll be in good company.
Where will I stay?
Pilgrims can choose from simple guesthouses (minshuku), traditional inns (ryokan), modern hotels, or temple lodgings (shukubō). This is mostly a matter of preference, budget, and availability. See our Shikoku Pilgrimage Cost Planning Guide for a detailed breakdown of accommodation types and costs. Walking pilgrims will find accommodations spaced at reasonable intervals in most areas, while those traveling by car or bicycle have greater flexibility. Accommodations in underserved areas can fill up quickly in spring and autumn, so you should make reservations at least a few days in advance.
How do I transfer luggage along the route?
Unlike the Kumano Kodo or Nakasendo, the Shikoku Pilgrimage still lacks a comprehensive luggage forwarding service. Walking pilgrims generally pack light enough to carry all of their gear–and even so, they end up sending some gear home or using some of the luggage storage services scattered across the island.
One of the biggest advantages of booking with a tour company like Shikoku Tours is that all of our tours — including walking ones — include a private support car where necessary. This means you don’t need to worry about luggage transfer services or carrying a heavy pack. Your belongings travel with you, giving you the freedom to walk, cycle, or explore the temples with just a light daypack.
When is the best time to do the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the most popular seasons. You’ll enjoy mild weather, cherry blossoms in spring, or brilliant foliage in autumn — perfect for walking and sightseeing.
But don’t overlook winter! Though Shikoku winters are mild, the pilgrimage route is wonderfully quiet in the colder months, offering crisp air, clear views, and the chance to experience the sacred sites in peaceful solitude. If you’re lucky, a light dusting of snow on temple rooftops and mountainsides adds a touch of magic. For pilgrims seeking a deeply personal, reflective experience, winter can be the most rewarding season of all.
Do I have to be Buddhist to participate?
No. The Henro is open to all. Japanese spirituality emphasizes action over belief — many pilgrims don’t identify as Buddhist at the start or end of their journey. You’ll meet people from all backgrounds and beliefs along the way.
If you are interested in learning the traditional chanting practice used by pilgrims, check out the videos and materials made by Koei Ervin, one of our pilgrimage guides, available on his blog here.
Where can I find more information?
One of the most amazing aspects of the Henro is the tight-knit group of foreign pilgrimage enthusiasts that share information and advice with those planning their own trip.
Recommended Guidebooks
- Shikoku 88 Japan Route Guide by Naoyuki Matsushita. The walking pilgrim’s bible, this book contains detailed maps with up-to-date information about accommodations on the entire 88 Temple route.
- The 88 Temples of Shikoku: A Guide for the Walking Pilgrim by Oliver Dunskus. A detailed guidebook with model itineraries, historical and cultural insights, and helpful tips from a veteran pilgrim. Oliver has a number of other books with detailed model itineraries that include public transit options and other information for those who want more detailed planning help.
Online Groups and Apps
- Facebook Groups: the below mutual-support communities really showcase the goodwill of the international Henro community, with extensive document archives available for free, as well as administrators and members who can answer questions.
- Shikoku 88 Ohenro Pilgrimage: Administered by authors Oliver Dunskus, Don Weiss, and others
- Ohenro San お遍路さん: Administered by authors Oliver Dunskus and Don Weiss, and others
- Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage Women’s Group: A closed group specifically for women, administered by veteran pilgrims.
- Apps
- Henro Helper: a free Henro app with a complete, detailed digital map of Shikoku, including up-to-date information on accommodation, trail closures, and much more.
- Henro Hub: an interactive map app with detailed temple and regional information.
Scholarly Books and Pilgrim Diaries
- Pilgrims Until We Die: Unending Pilgrimage in Shikoku by Ian Reader and John Schulz—a classic scholarly work on “forever pilgrims,” those who circle the route hundreds of times.
- Echoes of Incense by Don Weiss. A record of an American pilgrim’s first two Henros. Don has lived in Tokushima for a total of over 30 years and done the pilgrimage numerous times on foot.
We can help plan your Shikoku Pilgrimage
Planning an entire pilgrimage is an enormous undertaking, and the stress of finding accommodation, wondering where to turn with questions, and navigating cultural and language barriers may feel like more effort than you’re willing to take on.
Shikoku Tours is a full-service tour provider in Shikoku and beyond. All of our tours include an English-speaking guide, accommodation reservations, and a private vehicle and driver where necessary. We are experienced in offering itineraries on the Shikoku Henro.
Our offerings include full 88-temple journeys by car, guided walks of sections of the pilgrimage, and hiking tours to selected temples. All of our tours are fully customizable—throw your best ideas at us and let us help you make them a reality. Contact us today to begin planning your Shikoku Pilgrimage.
