Matsuyama Castle in Ehime Prefecture is a hilltop castle. It stands on the summit of Mt. Katsuyama, an imposing hill in the middle of Matsuyama. In the pre-modern age, it lay within the borders of Iyo Province. It was in use from 1603 to 1873.

You can get to the castle on foot by one of several steep but pleasant paths that wind their way up the forested hillside. For those not inclined to walk, the cable car and chairlift are an attractive option.

Inside the castle, there’s a good collection of armour, weapons, historical artifacts, and displays explaining the construction of the castle. You can also try getting dressed up in a suit of armour at no extra cost. The views in all directions from the top of the keep are extraordinary.

The castle was originally built by Katō Yoshiaki in 1603. Tōdō Takatora is thought to have had a hand in the design of the defences. The castle had a large five-story keep, but when Katō was transferred to Aizu in 1627, he took the keep with him to Aizu Castle. His successor in Matsuyama, Gamō Tadachika, died in 1635, shortly after completing the second ring of fortifications. He was followed by Matsudaira Sadayuki, who completed a new keep in 1642. His heirs continued to rule the castle after his death.

On New Year’s Day, 1784, the keep was struck by lightning and burned down. The current keep was built between 1820 and 1854. The castle survived the Meiji restoration, but parts of it were destroyed by American bombing during World War II. Since 1966, the city of Matsuyama has been working to restore the castle using traditional methods and materials.

Originally, Mt. Katsuyama had two peaks. The valley in between was filled in to create a plateau on which the castle stands. The approach to the castle involves a number of switchbacks and false approaches intended to confuse attackers. There’s also a hidden gate next to the main entrance to the main enclosure, which allowed defenders to sally out and surprise attackers as they tried to storm the main gate. Once a distinctive feature, now hidden by trees, are the two long walls that link the second defensive enclosure at the base of the hill with the main inner ring at the top.

The Ninomaru Garden at the base of the hill is the site of the lord’s palace in the second enclosure. The buildings are long gone, but their foundations are marked on the ground with flower beds and water features. The enclosure has an impressive well and an interesting museum in the gateway.