Finding Quiet at Chikurin-ji
Chikurin-ji, “the Temple of the Bamboo Grave,” sits at the top of Mt Godai. The rounded hill is a pillow of green in the midst of the bustling coastal city of Kochi. The temple’s red pagoda juts out from its forested peak, beckoning visitors away from the raucous atmosphere of the city.
The temple itself is an oasis. The cherry and maple trees scattered across its moss-covered grounds explode into color in their seasons. Frogs chirp from ponds that bloom with lotuses. As Temple 31 of the 88 Temple Pilgrimage, the grounds often hum with the prayers of white-clad pilgrims.
Within the temple lies an even deeper refuge of peace and quiet: the Sho-in. This elegant traditional building looks out on renowned Japanese gardens built in 1318 by the famed Zen monk Musō. Originally a retreat for the region’s samurai lords, it has served as a place of reflection and peace for centuries.
Now open to visitors, the Sho-in is a perfect venue for an introduction to Buddhist practices. Temple priests now guide visitors in Buddhist meditation and shakyo, or copying of sutras. For those interested in learning about Buddhism and its influence on Japanese art and aesthetics, this is a special opportunity.
Meditation in the Sho-in
The experience begins with a short explanation of the powerful symbolism of the Sho-in’s gardens. Rooted in Buddhism, the scenery’s design evokes an otherworldly sensation, encouraging visitors to step away from everyday concerns and into a more contemplative state.
The priest then explains about the role of meditation in Buddhism before moving into a guided session.
Chikurin-ji’s priests are experts at adapting their meditation instructions to people with various levels of experience, so the experience is suitable for either beginners or experienced meditators. The temple also has cushions and stools available for those who can’t sit on the floor.
Shakyo: Meditative Calligraphy
After meditating, the priest guides visitors to tables to try their hand at shakyo, literally “copying scriptures.” This practice has its roots in the days before mass-printing. For much of Japanese history, brush, ink, and paper were the only way of transmitting Buddhism’s vast body of texts.
Chikurin-ji was once a famed center of Buddhist scholarship, where monks would spend decades hand-copying vast collections of scriptures. Visitors now start small, copying out the Ten Good Precepts, a set of moral affirmations that serve as a guide for Buddhists around the world.
The experience also serves as a gentle introduction to the basics of shodo, Japanese calligraphy. Participants first learn the fundamentals of Japanese calligraphy on a practice sheet, then move on to their shakyo. This writing practice is another form of meditation, and is best done at a leisurely, enjoyable pace.
Offering Your Work
Once your shakyo is complete, the priest guides you to the temple’s main hall, where you present your calligraphy as an offering to the temple’s principal deity, Monju, the bodhisattva of wisdom and learning. The act of offering brings the experience full circle, transforming quiet personal practice into a gesture of connection with the temple, its traditions, and the centuries of practitioners who have come before.
Chikurin-ji with Shikoku Tours
When you Chikurin-ji as part of a journey with Shikoku Tours, the experience is facilitated by experienced local guides working closely with the temple. This allows you to participate with confidence, respect, and the freedom to be fully present in this rare space of calm and reflection.
