Discovering the Konpira Grand Theatre

Although modern Kabuki is closely associated with Osaka, Shikoku’s pilgrimage town of Kotohira has its own deep Kabuki roots. In days when pilgrims thronged to the mountain’s famous Konpira Shrine, performers regaled them from temporary stages. Seeing a need in their community, in 1865 a group of local geisha raised 1,000 ryo, or roughly ¥120,000,000 ($747,600.72USD) to have a proper theater built. This was the Konpira Grand Theatre.

After its construction, the most famous Kabuki actors of the Edo period came to perform in its halls. The theatre’s special effects were state-of-the-art. Bamboo latticework below the ceiling allowed stage-hands to sprinkle fake snow down on the performers and audience for winter scenes. The entire stage can rotate for quick scene changes. Two trap doors allow performers to spring up from the stage for surprise entrances. And most amazingly, a wooden track on the ceiling allows performers to fly in from the rafters. The modern theatre retains these original wooden special effects apparatuses. Apart from the flying track, stage-hands still manipulate them all by hand.

For the next 40 years, the Konpira Grand Theatre enjoyed a steady stream of visitors and high-profile performers until the decline of Kabuki nation wide in the late 1800’s. The theatre fell into disrepair, frequently changing hands until it was bought in 1900 by local businessman Kanamaru Genjirō for just ¥4,500, roughly ¥30,000 ($200 USD) in today’s money. The theatre struggled to stay open until it was designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1970. Since then, the theatre has been restored to its former Edo-period glory.

The Konpira Grand Theatre is a must-see for ayone visiting Kotohira. The theatre welcomes visitors in all months but April. Visitors can look behind the scenes at period changing rooms and the naraku, the under-stage area named after Buddhist hell for its cramped darkness. The naraku is where much of the magic of special effects takes place.

In April the theatre shuts its doors to casual visitors for a very good reason—its stage once again becomes host to Kabuki performances done exactly as they were 200 years ago. The performances, which feature well-known performers, go on for about a month, with two shows daily.

Taking in a Kabuki performance at the Konpira Grand Theatre is a truly one-of-a-kind experience only available in Kagawa. For anyone interested in Japanese performing arts, samurai culture, or traditional architecture, a visit to Konpira Grand Theatre among the cherry blossoms is an unmissable experience.