WWII History in Shikoku
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WWII History in Shikoku
Shikoku is known for its serene landscapes and Buddhist pilgrimage. However, it also has a wealth of historical sites that tell the story of Japan during World War II. Here we look at some of the war history in Shikoku that tends to slip under the radar for most visitors.
Matsuyama Airport fighter shelters
Hidden near Matsuyama Airport are three fighter plane shelters used during the war. These concrete shelters were designed to protect aircraft on the ground from Allied bombing and strafing. One of the shelters has been turned into a museum piece, but the other two have been incorporated into the suburban fabric to a remarkable degree as a garage and a second home.
Ōkunoshima poison gas factory
Located off the coast of Shikoku in the Inland Sea, Ōkunoshima, also known as Rabbit Island, was fitted with gun emplacements during the Russo-Japanese war. Later, it was home to a secret poison gas factory during WWII. The island now hosts a museum detailing the production and use of chemical weapons, as well as the human and environmental toll. You can learn about this dark legacy while also enjoying the island’s current charm as a sanctuary for rabbits.
Burmese pagodas
Shikoku’s connection to the broader Asian theatres of war is exemplified by its Burmese war memorials. These monuments in the form of Burmese pagodas honour Japanese soldiers who fought in Burma and civilians who were killed in the fighting. Notable examples can be found at Ishite-ji Temple in Matsuyama, and on Mt. Bizan in Tokushima.
WWII graves
In cemeteries across Shikoku, you can find WWII-era gravestones conspicuous for their five-pointed tops. These gravestones are inscribed with biographies of the soldiers, including their rank, and where and how they died.
Pearl Harbor minisubs
While the air attack on Pearl Harbor is well known, few are aware that five minisubs also took part in the operation. Mitsukue Bay on the Sadamisaki Peninsula which juts out from the western side of Shikoku, was thought to resemble the harbour in Hawaii, and the crews trained with their submarines in the bay. The submariners were popular with the locals and the area is dotted with memorials.
Kamikaze statues
Kamikaze pilots came from all over Shikoku, and they’re still honoured today at shrines and temples. Matsuyama Gokoku Shrine has a small statue of a handsome pilot inscribed “Ah, tokkōtai” which means “Oh, those kamikaze pilots…”. Displayed in the shrine’s grounds are propellers recovered from downed aircraft, serving as sombre reminders of these missions and the pilots’ ultimate sacrifice. At Kōon-ji Temple, a statue of Kannon holds a miniature kamikaze in the palm of her hand.
Shiden-Kai plane
In the town of Ainan in Ehime, a restored WWII-era Shiden-Kai plane is displayed as a historical artifact. This aircraft symbolizes the region’s involvement in the war and is a rare example of wartime aviation preserved for public viewing.
Zentsūji POW Camp
The town of Zentsūji in Kagawa Prefecture was an important military base in the Russo-Japanese war. During WWII, it housed a prisoner-of-war camp where Allied soldiers were held, especially Americans captured in the Pacific theatre. After the war, the city hall, Shikoku Gakuin University, and other public facilities were built on the site of the POW camp. Even today, the approach to Zentsū-ji Temple passes through an active military base.
Inland Sea naval mines
Toward the end of the war in 1945, B-29 Superfortress bombers laid naval mines in the approaches to the port of Kure in the Seto Inland Sea. The mines remained in the sea for a long time, and the cleanup was a dangerous and tedious task that took decades to complete. Thanks to the dedication of the mine disposal teams, the Inland Sea is safe to enjoy again.
Beyond Shikoku
Just across the Inland Sea from Matsuyama are Hiroshima, site of the first atomic bombing, and Kure, where the legendary giant battleship Yamato was built. These two cities are home to fascinating museums that will occupy those with an interest in military history for hours. Our companion site, Setouchi Tours, offers relevant tours on Honshū.
More than WWII
Of course, the military history on Shikoku isn’t limited to WWII. From the earliest times, kaizoku sailor-warriors from the island contributed their naval prowess, first to Japan’s internecine warfare, then to defence of the nation. The Russo-Japanese war also left its mark on Shikoku and the Inland Sea, and there are many evocative sites and museums to delight the military historian.
Planning your visit
Exploring Shikoku’s WWII historical sites is a journey through engineering feats, personal sacrifice, and the stark realities of war. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a traveller seeking deeper connections to Japan’s past, these sites provide a poignant narrative of resilience, innovation, and remembrance. Let us know if you’d like to plan a tour exploring this fascinating history.
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