The Meiji period (1868-1912) was a transformative era in Japanese history, marked by rapid modernization and a drive to strengthen national defence. Indeed, the overthrow of the Shōgunate was in large part precipitated by its failure to protect Japanese sovereignty from encroaching Western powers. The clans who overthrew the Tokugawa regime were simultaneously working feverishly to establish a defence organisation and related industries. Men from Kōchi in southern Shikoku played a leading role in this, while the northern coast of Shikoku facing the Seto Inland Sea was the site of many strategic installations.

The Meiji Restoration replaced the regional armies controlled by samurai with a national army, requiring all male citizens to serve. Only twenty-six years after the Meiji Restoration, Japan fought a successful war against the Qing dynasty of China in the First China–Japan War (1894 – 1895) using essentially modern weapons. Ten years later, Japan prevailed in the Russo-Japanese war (1904 – 1905). Over this period, while Japan itself was pursuing an expansionist policy, the nation feared invasion by its enemies, causing it to build gun emplacements around its coasts. Some of the most complete facilities from this time can still be visited today in Shikoku.   

Meiji period architecture employed superior materials and elegant designs, which are apparent even in ruined installations, and their architectural aspects can be enjoyed as much as the historical. Here we look at some of the military sites in Shikoku dating from the Meiji period, as well as places related to military leaders of that time.

The Geiyo Fortresses
The Geiyo Archipelago forms a permeable barrier across the Seto Inland Sea between Hiroshima and Ehime prefectures. Japan’s government feared that Russian ships might sail through the Inland Sea and attack Ōsaka, and so gun emplacements fitted with searchlights were built on the small islands of Oshima and Ōkunoshima, located close to strategic channels among the Geiyo islands. Today the Shimanami Kaidō cycling route runs through these islands and you can easily take a ferry to see the remains of the forts. On Oshima, you can see a replica of the 28 cm howitzer L/10 once installed on the island, then taken for use at the siege of Port Arthur. As a bonus, Ōkunoshima is home to many rabbits and you can see them lolloping among the ruins.

The Hōyo Fortress
The Hōyo Fortress was cut into cliffs at the tip of the Sada Peninsula to cover the Bungo Channel between Shikoku and Kyūshū. It’s a pleasant walk along the wind-swept coastal path to the gun emplacements which house replicas of the Type 38 12 cm howitzers that once defended the channel.

Nogi Museum in Zentsūji
After the First Sino-Japanese War ended in 1895, six new infantry divisions were raised by the Imperial Japanese Army, including the 11th Division headquartered in Zentsūji, with troops recruited from Shikoku. Its first commander was Lieutenant General Nogi Maresuke. The headquarters, a Renaissance-style Western building, is now the Nogi Museum where Nogi’s office has been preserved in its original state. Also in Zentsūji is Konzō-ji Temple where General Nogi lived. On New Year’s Eve in 1898, his wife Shizuko visited him from Tōkyō, but he told an aide to send her away without seeing her, reasoning that other low-ranking soldiers were unable to enjoy the luxury of seeing their wives at that time. Not knowing what to do, Shizuko lingered by herself under the pine tree as snow fell all around. Then, considering her husband’s feelings, she returned to Tōkyō. The pine tree that bore silent witness to this pitiful scene became the stuff of legend.

Russian Cemetery in Matsuyama
The Russo-Japanese War brought prisoners of war to Japan, many of whom were housed in a POW camp in Matsuyama. Over ninety Russian soldiers who died of wounds and disease are buried in a dedicated cemetery north of Matsuyama Castle. The cemetery is well-maintained and features headstones with inscriptions in Cyrillic, and a fine statue of Captain Vasili Bojsman who died in Matsuyama of wounds received at Port Arthur.

Akiyama brothers
The Akiyama brothers, Yoshifuru and Saneyuki, played leading, innovative roles in the Japanese cavalry and navy during the Russo-Japanese war. Their humble birthplace is close below Matsuyama Castle, and statues of them stand in a park in Baishinji. Yoshifuru’s modest grave can be seen in Sagidani Cemetery in Dōgo. At Isaniwa Shrine, also in Dōgo is a fine painting of the siege of Port Arthur, with little men being blown into the air by dreadful explosions.

These are only some of the remaining Meiji period sites. All over Shikoku, you’re likely to discover howitzer shells on display at Shintō shrines, or portraits of the Emperor Meiji in full military dress. It’s fascinating to visit these scenic and historic places and learn about Japan’s position in the world at that time. Be sure to let us know if you’re a military history enthusiast, and we’ll take you on an unforgettable journey.